Potty Training Basics

Potty training can be a head ache for many new pet parents. Often, we expect our puppies to master this in just a few weeks, when in reality it can take months for our new dogs to understand exactly what we want from them.

To your dog, the whole world is a bathroom, except for the place your puppy sleeps. We have to show them, in a way they understand, that there are places we'd prefer them to not go. The best way to start this process is with a crate or kennel. When choosing a crate, pick one that will fit your dog as an adult. I prefer ones like this. The divider allows you to make the crate an appropriate size for your puppy, but it gives you the flexibility to make the cage bigger as your dog grows. As you can see in the picture, the puppy needs very little space. Your dog should be able to sit up, and turn around, but thats about it. This seems very tight to us, but its the perfect den for your dog. I also like to add a few towels, or blankets for the puppy to snuggle up in. Be sure to use something easy to wash, and that you wont mind if it gets torn up. Because this is your dogs space, it will be very hard to convince them to not chew up what you put in them if they decide they want it in tiny pieces.
Your dog can spend time in this crate when you can't supervise them. This way, you eliminate the chance that they will "do something wrong" and you know they are safe. Keep in mind that your dog can only hold their bladder as for as many hours as they are months old. If they are left in their crate longer, then they will probably go to the bathroom in it. If this happens, then the crate becomes pretty useless. Once your dog feels like they can go potty in there, then there is nothing stopping them. If you have to leave your puppy for more than a few hours, set them up in a safe place that will be easy to clean up any messes. You can use puppy pads to help minimize the mess. This does create a bit of inconsistency in your puppies world, so it is best if you can get home every few hours to take him/her out side.

Set your puppy up on a very strict schedule. I recommend taking them outside once an hour for the first few weeks, to give them lots of opportunity to "do it right". When your puppy goes potty out side, reward them with a special treat (something soft and really tasty) and praise them. Let them play a little bit before putting them back in their crate (if you have to leave again) or before taking them inside, so they can enjoy running and stretching their legs.
If your puppy has an accident, remember that they don't yet understand your rules. If you catch them in the act, don't yell or punish your puppy. Just make a loud noise to startle them and then take them outside to finish, and reward them for going outside. If you don't catch your puppy, just clean things up. Yelling or punishing your puppy wont help, it will actually make things worse. If you yell at your puppy while they are going, they will think you don't want them to go to the bathroom at all, and will most likely try to hide when they have to go. This makes it harder to learn their signals to take them out.

Invest in a good quality cleaner with natural enzymes. The enzymes in the cleaner eat the proteins that your dogs urine leaves behind. It is these proteins that your dog can smell, which tells them "this is a good place to potty". Many common household carpet cleaners have ammonia in them, which is also a component of urine, and will only make the smell stronger to your dog.

If your puppy is having trouble mastering this, go back to the beginning, start with a schedule, and be sure to clean your carpets really well with enzymes.

Body Language

This is a special post, because it comes directly from something that I did today. I got my self bit by a dog.

This dog was obviously nervous, but sending me signals that he was friendly, so I scratched under his chin and behind his ears. I got too comfortable, and reached over him to scratch his back, and feel his ribs. He was a thin dog, but as a husky I couldn't tell how thin, and I was trying to decide if he was under weight. At this point, I put my self in a bad situation, I leaned over the dog to touch him, and couldn't see his face any more. He didn't like what I was doing, and was probably telling me so with his body language, but I wasn't paying attention. I didn't hear him growl, but one of the other associates says he did. The dog did everything right, and I did everything wrong. Its no wonder he decided to take it a step further. He gave me a warning bite... unfortunately this was a warning bite to my face, and I now have Marcia Brady nose (though it doesn't look so bad now). The dog did not want to hurt me, but more than it didn't wan to hurt me, it wanted to protect it self. He did not bite down, he just opened his mouth, and hit me in the face with his teeth. I feel terrible, because I should know better. I also feel lucky that he didn't want to hurt me, otherwise I might not have a nose any more.
Dogs don't speak, he couldn't tell me that I was making him uncomfortable. They do give us clues about how they feel, and if you learn to read those, you can help your dog feel more comfortable

This dog is anxious, notice how tight his brow is, and how he is forcing his ears down. He is trying to avoid making eye contact with the person taking the photo. His mouth is also very tight. This dog is likely saying, "I am not okay with this situation, but i'm putting up with it anyway." I would let this dog smell me, and based on its reaction I might pet it

This dog is also feeling anxious. Notice his ears, averted eyes, and he's licking his nose, which is often a sign that a dog is trying to calm it self down. Yawning, with eyes averted, is also a sign of anxiousness. A nervous dog might also hold his paw up. 

This dog is actively agressive. His ears are back, his teeth are barred, and he's trying to lunge forward. An agressive dog might also square off his body toward the threat, move his ears and eyes forward and stick his tail straight out. His whole body will appear to be creeping forward, as he pushes his chest out and head forward. This is what we would call "Confident Agressive". The difference between this and a happy dog is very subtle, so it is important to understand. A confident agressive dog is very tense, tail straight out, maybe wagging slowly. A happy dog is relaxed and his tail might wag, but its held low, in a more comfortable looking position. 

This dog is resource guarding. He is doing everything he can to send the message "this is mine, stay away". I woud not pet this dog, because he is so worried about his bone, he would probably bite me to protect it.

This is a happy dog. You can see how relaxed his eyes and ears are. He is curious, and his tail is relaxed and wagging. 

I hope this helps you understand how your dog uses body language to tell you how they feel. 

Lauren

Hidden Dangers to Your Dog

Most everyone is aware how bad chocolate is for your dog, but there are a lot of other dangers to your dog hidden in your house. 

Grapes and raisins: In some dogs, grapes can cause kidney failure. Vets are really not sure what causes kidney failure in dogs, and it doesn't happen with every dog, but just a few grapes can cause serious damage. Why take the chance? 

Onions have been known to trigger what’s called hemolytic anemia in dogs. This is a condition where there are not enough red blood cells. Again, this doesn't occur in every dog, but its not something to be aware of. 

Artificial Sweeteners:  Xylitol in particular is quite dangerous.  It is found in sugarless gum and candy. In large amounts it xylitol can cause a drop in blood sugar, and lead to seizures.

House Plants: Certain houseplants have been known to cause problems with dogs. Here is a link to the ASPCA toxic and non-toxic plant list. While their list is not complete, it does contain the most common houseplants. 

Unfortunately, not all pet emergencies occur when the vet is open. Be sure to have the number of your local Emergency vet somewhere that is easy to find. You can also call the ASPCA poison control number: 1-888-426-443 if you are not sure if your pet has ingested something that is dangerous, or you can’t get to the vet. 

Feeding Your New Dog: Kibble

      Whether you get a puppy or an adult dog, it will have specific dietary needs. Puppies have different dietary needs than adults, and so do seniors. Large breed dogs have different needs than small breed dogs. Some dogs do better on high protein high fat diets while others need more fiber to remain healthy. There are many choices for dog food, so you should have no trouble finding the perfect fit. 

      If you have a small breed dog or a large breed dog you should consider choosing a food that is size specific. Small breed foods have smaller kibble that is more palatable, meaning tasty, for finicky eaters; have a calorie count more suited to your small breed dog, because they have to use a whole lot more energy to get where they are going; and have a balance of vitamins and minerals more suited to a small breed. Large breed foods have more of some minerals, such as calcium, and often have more protein and fat for your rapidly growing dog. 

      Unless directed to do so by your vet, always feed a food that is specific to your dog’s life stage. Puppies, and pregnant moms should eat puppy food because they are growing so quickly that they need the extra nutrients. Feed a puppy food until your dog is 12 months old. Adult dogs do not need the extra help, because they are not growing and generally are not as active. Senior dogs need things like glucosamine and chondroitin for joint health, and a lower calorie diet because again, they are moving around less. 

      

      When choosing the right food, look at the ingredient panel first. You can identify a premium dog food based on the ingredients used. A protein, preferably meat, should be the first ingredient. Many food brands are touting "whole" meat as the first ingredient, which is great, but because that meat contains all of its water, by the time the food is processed into a kibble, that meat is actually only 20% of its original weight! Look for meat meals. The mealing process takes out all the water, and what’s left is a fine powder. A meal is usually 300% more protein concentrated than the whole meat. Beyond the meat protein first, a good, easily digestible carbohydrate should be in the top 5 ingredients. Rice, potato, sweet potato, and oatmeal are a few good ones, but the only carbs that are not so much recommended are corn and wheat, and this has more to do with the quality of the individual source, and not the ingredient it self. 

      There are a few things I recommend avoiding. The first is unspecified sources. If something is listed as "Poultry-meal" then it can be any type of poultry, from chicken, to quail or even pigeon. This is bad because it means the food doesn't have to be consistent. The producer can literally choose whichever bird happens to be cheapest that month. Anything labeled "Animal" or lacking an animal distinction (Like "meat-and-bone meal or by-product meal) can legally be ANY kind of animal, even road kill! 

       Many of the foods I recommend most are a bit on the pricy side, but when you look at the difference in the quantity of food your dog eats, it really ends up about the same. If you are feeding a food that is mostly corn, and is not very digestible, your dog will have to eat more food to get the nutrition it needs. If you are feeding a food with highly digestible ingredients, then your dog wont have to eat as much to get the same nutrients. A friend of mine switched from feeding her dog a lower quality "basic" food to a premium nutrition food, and even though she has to spend more for each bag, she buys fewer bags. This has saved her quite a bit, and her dog poops less too!

Happy Feeding!

Lauren.